What Size PA Speaker Do You Need? Size It Backwards From Required SPL
Start at the furthest seat, not at the box. Decide the peak SPL that seat needs for your programme material, add back the distance loss of 20 log of the distance in metres, subtract the cabinet's sensitivity, and convert to watts. A 12-inch top rated 99 dB at 1W/1m, asked for 103 dB at a seat 15 m away, needs about 560 watts on its own or 280 into each of a pair. Driver diameter falls out at the end.
By the Speakers Guru Editorial Team
Size a PA backwards. Start at the furthest seat, decide the peak SPL that seat needs for your programme material, add back the loss over the distance, subtract the cabinet's sensitivity, and convert the remainder into watts. Driver diameter is the last thing you decide, not the first.
Worked through once: a 12-inch two-way rated 99 dB at 1W/1m, asked to deliver 103 dB peak at a seat 15 metres away, needs 126.5 dB at one metre. That is 560 watts into a single box, or 280 into each of a pair once you count the 3 dB the second box adds. Fold in a subwoofer taking roughly twice the tops' power and the system lands somewhere near 1,700 watts continuous.
Buying by box size instead is how a church ends up with 15-inch tops covering fifty seats and no subwoofer, and a system that sounds thin at the back and painful at the front.
Work it backwards, in four steps
- Measure the actual path from the speaker position to the furthest seat, in metres. Not the room length — the path, which in a balcony room is longer than you think.
- Take the peak SPL that seat needs from the programme table below.
- Add the distance loss, which is 20 times log10 of the distance in metres. At 10 m that is 20 dB, at 15 m it is 23.5, at 20 m it is 26, at 30 m it is 29.5. The sum is the level required at one metre from the box.
- Subtract the cabinet's sensitivity and convert: watts equals 10 raised to the power of (level required at 1 m minus sensitivity), all divided by 10.
Every step is arithmetic you can do on a phone, and what comes out is a wattage rather than a shortlist. That matters, because a wattage can be checked against a spec sheet and a shortlist cannot.
The programme material sets the target
Programme Target average SPL at the furthest seat (dBA) Crest headroom needed (dB) Peak SPL the system must make Noise floor it has to beat Spoken word, lectern, small meeting 70-75 12 87 45-50 dBA from HVAC School assembly, announcements 75-80 12 92 55-60 dBA with the room occupied Acoustic duo or singer-songwriter 82-88 12 100 55 dBA Worship band with a full kit 90-95 12 107 60-65 dBA Fitness class or gym floor 92-96 10 106 65-70 dBA of equipment and voices Rock band, small venue 96-102 12 114 70 dBA DJ or dance 98-104 10 114 70-75 dBA Cinema-style playback 82-85 average 20 105 35-40 dBA Pick your row and carry the peak column into the sizing table. The average figure is what people describe afterwards; the peak figure is what the amplifier has to survive without clipping. Crest factor is the gap between average and peak, and it is the number that gets skipped. Speech and live acoustic material run 12 dB or more between the two. Heavily compressed dance tracks run closer to 8 or 10. Size a system to the average and nothing else, and it clips on every transient — which is what people mean when they say a rig sounds harsh at volume.
The noise floor column matters as much as the target. Speech intelligibility needs roughly 25 dB of signal above the background noise, so a gym with a 68 dBA floor needs 93 dBA of programme before anyone understands a word, no matter how good the speakers are.
The sizing table
Audience Room volume (cu m) Furthest seat (m) Peak SPL required there Total continuous system watts Woofer diameter Tops Subwoofers Crossover Passive or powered 25 80-200 8 95 dB 300-500 8 in 2 None for speech; one 12 in if music 120 Hz Powered 50 200-450 12 100 dB 600-1,000 10 in 2 One 15 in if music 110 Hz Powered 100 450-900 15 103 dB 1,200-2,000 12 in 2 One 18 in, or two 15 in 100 Hz Powered 150-250 900-1,800 20 106 dB 2,500-4,500 12 in 2-4 Two 18 in 95 Hz Either 250-400 1,800-3,000 25 108 dB 5,000-8,000 12-15 in 4 Two to four 18 in 90 Hz Passive on a rack 500+ 3,000+ 30+ 110 dB 10,000-18,000 15 in, or a compact line array 6-12 elements per side Four or more 18 in 85 Hz Passive on a rack Find your headcount row, sanity-check the room volume and furthest-seat columns against your own measurements, and treat the watts figure as the total across tops and subs together. Split that wattage roughly one third to the tops and two thirds to the subwoofers. The ratio surprises people every time, and it explains why a rig built entirely from full-range tops always sounds strained: the tops end up doing bass work they have nothing like the cone area for, and every watt spent down there is a watt not available for the vocal.
Where the headcount row and the room volume row disagree, follow the room. A hundred people in a 1,600 cubic metre hall is a 1,600 cubic metre problem, and the empty air still has to be filled.
Cabinet sensitivity, and the number the watts hang off
Cabinet Sensitivity 1W/1m Continuous power rating Max continuous SPL Typical weight, powered 8 in two-way top 94-97 dB 200-350 W 118-122 dB 9-13 kg 10 in two-way top 96-99 dB 300-500 W 121-125 dB 12-17 kg 12 in two-way top 97-101 dB 400-800 W 124-129 dB 15-22 kg 15 in two-way top 98-102 dB 500-1,000 W 126-131 dB 20-30 kg 15 in horn-loaded top 101-104 dB 600-1,200 W 130-134 dB 25-35 kg 15 in subwoofer 95-99 dB 400-800 W 122-128 dB 25-35 kg 18 in subwoofer 96-100 dB 600-1,400 W 124-130 dB 40-60 kg Dual 18 in subwoofer 99-103 dB 1,200-2,800 W 128-134 dB 70-100 kg Use the sensitivity column in the wattage calculation and the weight column to decide whether one person can actually get the box onto a pole at 7am. PA cabinets are almost always 8 ohms, which is the one corner of loudspeaker specification where the reference conditions happen to agree: 2.83 V into 8 ohms is exactly 1 watt, so both figures give the same number. Where you do meet a 4-ohm PA box, usually a dual-driver subwoofer, a sensitivity quoted at 2.83V/1m was measured at 2 watts and reads 3 dB better than the same box's 1W/1m figure. Three decibels is a doubling of amplifier power, so it is worth checking which condition is printed before you spec the rack.
Weight is the specification nobody reads and everybody regrets. A 15-inch powered top at 28 kg goes on a pole once, by two people, and then stays there. If the system gets set up and struck weekly by volunteers, buy 12-inch tops and accept the 3 dB.
Doubling boxes buys 3 dB, and doubling subs buys 6
Adding cabinets does not add loudness the way people expect, and the amount you gain depends on whether the boxes couple.
Two tops flown or poled apart do not couple. Across the frequencies they cover, a wavelength is short compared with the spacing between them, so their outputs sum as power rather than as pressure and you gain 3 dB for the second box. Four tops gets you 6 dB over one. That is real, but it is a quarter of the loudness increase most people assume.
Two subwoofers stacked side by side do couple. Below about 100 Hz a wavelength is over 3.4 metres, so two cabinets 60 cm apart are effectively a single source at the same point, their pressures sum directly and you gain 6 dB. Four stacked is 12 dB over one. That is the entire reason sub arrays are always built touching rather than spread across a stage, and splitting a pair of subs to the two corners of a stage throws away 3 of those 6 dB before anyone has played a note.
The practical consequence: when a system is short on level, adding subs is roughly twice as efficient per box as adding tops.
Where the subwoofer crossover goes
Set it by the top's woofer diameter, not by taste.
An 8 or 10-inch top wants a 110 to 120 Hz crossover. A 12-inch top wants 100 Hz. A 15-inch top wants 80 to 90 Hz. Below those points the top's woofer is running out of excursion long before it runs out of thermal capacity, and every watt it spends there is a watt it does not have for the vocal range, where the audience is listening.
Use 24 dB per octave slopes both ways. A 12 dB slope leaves the top exposed to too much of the sub's band, and in a portable rig that gets loaded in by whoever is available, that exposure is what kills 12-inch drivers.
High-pass the tops even when there is no subwoofer at all. A 12-inch top rolled off at 60 Hz with a 24 dB slope gains meaningful headroom above 100 Hz and loses nothing anybody misses, because there was never usable output down there to begin with.
Two more that matter in a live room. Check subwoofer polarity against the tops at the crossover point, because a 180 degree error produces a deep notch in exactly the octave the kick drum lives in and it sounds like a bad room rather than a wiring fault. And keep the subs on the floor: a subwoofer lifted onto a stage loses the floor boundary that was giving it 3 to 6 dB for free.
Passive or powered, decided by the rack and the cable
Consideration Powered Passive Amplifier matching Done at the factory, with DSP and a limiter matched to the driver Your responsibility; the limiter is whatever you set, or nothing Cable at each position One signal cable plus an outlet at the pole One speaker cable back to the rack Weight per box, 12 in top 15-22 kg 14-17 kg Setup time, two tops and two subs 15-20 minutes 35-50 minutes including the rack A dead channel mid-event That box comes off the pole; there is no spare channel Repatch to a spare amp channel in under a minute Long cable runs Signal cable is cheap and lossless over distance Speaker cable loss becomes real past about 30 m; the gauge has to go up Scaling up later Buy more boxes, each with its own amp Add boxes to the existing rack until the channels run out Best fit Portable rigs, volunteer crews, anything set up and struck weekly Installed systems, 250 people and up, anywhere the racks live in one place Read down the column that matches your crew rather than your budget. A powered rig that a single volunteer can deploy in fifteen minutes beats a better-sounding passive rig that needs two people and a plan. The crossover point belongs to the processor either way. Powered boxes usually carry a built-in high pass with a preset for the matching sub; passive systems need a separate processor between desk and amps, and skipping it is the most common reason a passive rig underperforms a cheaper powered one.
Measure these before you buy
- Path distance from the intended speaker position to the furthest seat, in metres.
- Room volume: length times width times average height, in cubic metres. Vaulted ceilings count, and they are why gyms and churches need more system than their floor area suggests.
- Ambient noise floor with the room occupied and the HVAC running, on any sound level meter or a phone app calibrated against one. This sets the floor you have to clear.
- Reverberation time by ear if you have no meter: clap once, hard, and count. Anything over about 1.5 seconds means intelligibility, not level, is your problem, and more watts will make it worse.
- Ceiling height at the speaker position, which decides whether the tops go on poles, on brackets or flown.
- Who is carrying the boxes, and how often.
If the clap test comes back long and ringing, stop the specification there. In a hard room, a bigger PA raises the reverberant field along with the direct sound and the ratio between them does not improve. The fix is directivity — narrower-pattern boxes aimed at the seats and off the walls — or treatment, and neither of those is a wattage problem.